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Some basics about Albania
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As we left Albania we all agreed that it had been a fantastic trip: a programme which could not have been better, two different but brilliant guides, lots of super scenery, great hospitality in the family homes in the mountains, very interesting walks every day, good food all the way with plenty of beer, wine and raki. It was a really great experience for all of us and I, for one, appreciated the differences between the north and south of Albania. I love them both.
Erenik was a terrific guide, very professional on the walks, not too fast for those with older legs, like me, and, as we say, an absolute mine of information about so many aspects of the history and life of Albania. I thought it would be a hard act to follow up on Endrit and we didn’t want to say goodbye to you, but it turned out very well having two different guides on the trip.
I think the balance between the trekking and ‘culture’ days was about right. We were worried a bit about having two nights in Permeti and a full ‘rest day’ there but that was good, having two nights in the same hotel and a very interesting day at the warm spring and then the village visit to Sotir’s house in Bënjë.
I’ll be writing again soon, I expect, but really this letter is to say a VERY BIG THANK YOU to you for organizing everything for us on a wonderful holiday in southern Albania.
Very best wishes to you and Zbulo for a successful season. We look forward to being with you again in the Albanian mountains some time in the future.
The plan that Ricardo provided for us was very detailed and interesting. Our visit to both Valbona Valley and Theth Valley and the walks that we did there were all excellent. The trip from Shkoder to Dragobia via the Lake Koman Ferry was extremely scenic. We were able to meet very nice local people as well as other travelers. Crossing Valbona Pass on foot, with a horse and guide carrying our luggage was a lot of fun.
Every aspect of our journey in northern Albania went according to schedule. All our transfers were perfectly on time and the drivers very reliable. The guesthouses and their owners were very hospitable. The food was plentiful and delicious.
We would recommend this tour to anyone with an adventurous spirit who enjoys traveling in scenic mountain environments that have retained a local flavor.
We enjoyed the holiday very much. We spent two weeks in Albania: one week of hiking arranged by Zbulo and one week on our own in the south. In hindsight, we would have done both weeks through Zbulo as it was just a much more enjoyable and relaxing experience for not much more money.
Even though Enis was not officially our guide but only the driver, he showed us Skanderbeg’s memorial, walked around several castles with us, showed us how to boulder and rock climb, and was generally very gracious and friendly.
Reinald (57), Germany
Peaks of the Balkans Trail
August / September 2014A most varied, interesting and enjoyable journey, difficult to imagine without Ricardo’s commitment to the region, his natural leadership skills, his deep liaison with local people from all walks of life, and his enormous knowledge about its history, social fabric, and potential for future development (for the benefit of the local population). I would not want to visit the area without his company.
Alex Miller, Austria / Scotland
Peaks of the Balkans Trail
Excerpt – click icon for full travel report
August 2014I would not normally book a guided trek for a summer trip. However although the infrastructure is improving, there are still landmines in places, superficially accurate looking maps funded by Germany are available, but their accuracy is very variable. I have no idea how one would book accommodation in the places out of the valley where there was no phone and only Albanian was spoken, 4WD vehicles and horses save a lot of hard work, and our guide Ricardo was an endless source of information, improvisation if necessary and local contacts. There is a strong tradition of hospitality to guests in Albania and Kosovo. The locals were all very friendly, even if they were poor, and it was obligatory for everyone to shake hands or kiss the hosts on arriving and leaving. In some places the hosts had moved out of their own rooms to make room for us. If you like a diet of cucumbers, tomatoes and salty sheep cheese two or three times a day, this is the place for you!
Raphael Shapiro, United States
Alps Trek in Theth and Valbona
August 2014Nach unserer ersten Tour zum Jezerca vermittelte uns Ricardo einem Führer am Berg Korabi, den wir ebenfalls mit viel Spaß + langen, ergreifenden Geschichten aus der Vorwendezeit in Albanien erfolgreich bestiegen. Wie bereits am Jezerces kamen wir auch am Korab dank Führer zum Übersetzen azu zahlreichen informativen Gesprächen mit Hirten.
Wir freuen uns schon auf die nächste Albanienreise und erneutes Wandern in den albanischen Alpen!
Besonderer Dank an Ricardo für seine Mühe bei der Vorbereitung der nicht standardmäßig im Programm von Zbulo gelisteten Tour.Um sich nochmals zu beweisen , gingen wir auf Trekking- Reisen In ein touristisch Nirgendwo zwischen Albanien, Montenegro und den Kosovo. Nur wer es selbst auch erlebt hat, weiß wovon ich berichte. Es ist schließlich nicht irgendeine Geschichte. Es war eine Erfahrung, die das Leben macht bunter. Wer das geschafft hat, geht niemals mehr unter ! Es war eine Mischung aus Trekking und vom ́Container ́ ein Stück , es war eine kleine weitere Stufe zum höchsten Glück !
Raphael Shapiro, United States
Alps Trek in Theth and Valbona
August 2014Wonderful hiking in Valbona and Theth. Niko was a great guide; very enjoyable to be with, knowledgable and helpful, his English is excellent. Staying with Niko’s family was perfect, drivers and transportation very good, food plentiful. Got to see some of the real Albania!
Nina Weise-Hübner, Germany
Albanian Alps – Theth & Valbona
July 2014Rundherum eine gelungene Reise. Und ein besonderes Kompliment an den Reiseleiter!! Niemals müde, immer auf Draht, super informiert, klasse in der Weitergabe seiner Kenntnisse und das Erstaunlichste: Er war topfit in den unterschiedlichsten Bereichen: Ortskenntnisse/Tourenleitung, persönliche Bekanntschaften im gesamten Wanderbereich, historisches Wissen und Kenntnisse der Landeskultur(en) in vielfältigster Ausprägung inkl. Moscheenführung… dafür nochmals ein ganz dickes Dankeschön!
Edna Minche, United States
Peaks of the Balkans Trek
July 2014Fist of all the food was terrific! I enjoyed every meal, especially the fresh vegetables, yogurt and of course the raki was a bonus. One of the hosts let me help prepare a bread dish, which I wanted to, this helped me understand the recipe. It was so gracious of people to accommodate me as a vegetarian.
The guides were excellent. Besa, was a delightful companion and by the end of the trip was as much friend as leader. Agim was also a wonderful guide. I was very impressed with his knowledge of the history and people. He worked hard to make sure we had a safe and enjoyable trip. I most enjoyed Agim the day just the girls of our group went with him and Besa: We laughed all day
Another highlight I shall not forget to mention was the city tour of Tirana and its history – thanks Gjolek! Everything was great, but this provided a special understanding of the recent past and culture of Albania.
In short it was was wonderful experience that exceeded expectations.
Jay Dement, United States
Peaks of the Balkans Trek
July 2014We were a group of 10 hiking friends on a journey to explore the Balkans. Most of us have traveled and hiked in many spectacular places around the globe, but were astonished at the beautiful landscapes that we discovered on the Peaks of the Balkans trail. The combination of challenging hiking, the ability to connect with local people and enjoy their traditional foods, and visits to cultural sights of the area was a real winner. Most of us rated this trip among the top of our all-time adventures. Staying in local guest houses–and even in shepherd’s huts at Dobderol high in the mountains–made this special.
The folks at Zbulo did a fabulous job of organizing the journey for this size group. It took a lot of work to set up lodging and transport for the complex itinerary and they were willing to customize it to address our interests. Our guides Besa and Agim were both competent and fun.
Thanks, Zbulo, for a fabulous experience.
Marianne Jefferson Skeen, United States
Peaks of the Balkans Trek
July 2014Fabulous! It ranks among the top among my many adventures world wide. It exceeded my expectations – and they were high to begin with! Challenging hiking, great scenery, good opportunities to meet local people and enjoy traditional foods.
The itinerary was well documented, it was a complex with a lot of customization. Zbulo was willing to work with us to tailor it to our interests and needs and we valued the suggestions. The way you they set it up allowed us to hike the most spectacular sections and move by vehicle thru some of the more boring sections. Also the variety of accommodations was nice–from the shepherd’s hut in Doberdol to local guesthouses to small interesting hotels. The only negative comment about food is that we couldn’t eat it all!
Our guides were both attentive to the group and to safety issues. Most of us have led trips non-professionally and appreciate what’s involved in managing a group on a trip like this. Guides were proficient in providing alternatives when people were not feeling well or weather was threatening.
Besa worked hard using the phone to make sure that all of the complicated arrangements for transport and lodging were confirmed. We loved the opportunity to climb Mt Arapit with her and Susie – a highlight of the trip. Also loved Besa’s invitation to visit with her family friends near Valbona. We named their home “Shangri-la”. The raki and tomatoes and hospitality were memorable. Only problem was that she would not let us stay there for several days :-)).
We enjoyed talking with Agim. I regret now that I did not spend more time over a glass or two of raki talking to him about life and his experiences. Maybe I will meet him again and have another opportunity. I especially enjoyed the day that he led us into Kosovo when only three of us in the group hiked with him and Besa.
It’s really difficult to come up with anything but good thoughts about this trip and it was a great value for the money. I am considering a return to the Balkans because it has captured me.
Shelley Ann Rose, United States
Peaks of the Balkans Trek
July 2014The trek surpassed my expectations in every way. The scenery was dramatic, the hiking was challenging, the food was fabulous and the people were warm and welcoming. All aspects of the trip were well organized and everything was taken care of. If we ran into snags, our guides made alternate plans and took care of things. I had a great time and enjoyed it very much.
Most of the accommodations were clean, friendly and very nice. Especially the family at Reka e Allages were wonderful. We showed up early in the day because of rain and they welcomed us into their home and fed us all day long. The night in Doberdol at the shepherds huts was very unique and glad we could do this. The food was plentiful and excellent. We always had vegetarian options which was good. Transport of gear worked out well. Definitely well cared for by Besa and Agim. They were very concerned for our safety and that we were having a good time and enjoying ourselves. They love nature and the areas where we were and seemed to really enjoy showing it to us. Besa is a very warm and caring person and made us all feel very welcome and cared for. She loves what she does. Agim was very knowledgeable about the area.
I am telling all my friends that this is a wonderful destination to come and hike. I would like to come back and see more of the area.
Besa was a great guide. She was very warm and made it a point to hang out with our group and get to know us. She was calm and gave us a feeling of confidence. She obviously loved the areas where we were hiking and her enthusiasm for the trip was contagious.
Agim was very knowledgeable about the trail and the areas we were hiking. He kept more to himself and took longer to get to know. He has a great love for the areas where we hiked and knew a lot about the trail and the history of the area.
Birgit Schenk, Germany
Peaks of the Blakans
July 2014Die Trekkingreise „Peaks of the Balkan Trail” fasziniert mit großartigen Landschaften und einzigartigen Bergkulissen. Noch beeindruckender als die Natur sind aber die Menschen in den Bergdörfern, in denen das 21. Jahrhundert scheinbar noch nicht angekommen ist. Ich habe aufgeschlossene und freundliche Menschen kennengelernt, die mit dem was sie haben, glücklich und zufrieden leben. Die Gastfreundschaft ist ihnen heilig, so dass man sich dort als „Familienmitglied“ fühlt. Dies alles hat die Reise zu einer ganz besonderen Erfahrung gemacht. Aber nicht nur die Natur, die Menschen vor Ort, sind einzigartig, sondern auch unserer Guide Ricardo. Seine Begeisterung für diese Region, sein Wissen (geschichtlich/politisch/religiös/sozial/kulturell), die Gabe unterschiedliche Charaktere unter einen Hut zu bringen, sein unermüdliches Bemühen uns albanisch beizubringen 😉 all´ dies hat dazu beigetragen, dass es für mich ein unvergesslicher Urlaub war.
Caroyln Smith, United States
Hidden Trails: Permet & Zagoria + Alps Explorer: Self-Guided
Excerpt from their travel blog
July 2014My favorite moment: approaching the village of Limar in Albania. I cried with joy. It had been a longtime goal to hike to an isolated village like this, and somehow my first glimpse of Limar fit the mental image I had carried for years.Eine spannende, dank Ricardo auch sehr lehrreiche Trekkingtour durch wunderschöne, unberührte Landschaften. Ob Fragen zur Botanik, Land und Leuten, Politik, Religion – Ricardo wußte die Antwort. Die Organisation war hervorragend, die Gastgeber und alle anderen Einwohner sehr, sehr freundlich. Das Essen war ausgezeichnet, Slowfood vom Feinsten. Die Wanderung war, wie auch angekündigt, anspruchsvoll aber durch das gemäßigte Tempo unseres Guides problemlos. Wir haben uns rundrum wohlgefühlt und können diese Reise nur wärmstens empfehlen.It was a magical adventure! The landscape was incredible and seemed to change with each mile that we traversed. Each place that we stayed was a little bit different in a really fantastic way. We ate well, slept deeply, hiked hard and were so well taken care of along the way. It was like we stepped back in time to an idyllic corner of the world steeped in history, culture, and charm and we were the guests of honor. We enjoyed it to no end. It met and exceeded our expectations. And we did not have any problems. Thank you for a truly unique and unforgettable experience.
Our guide Erenik was fantastic. He took great care of us and it felt like everywhere we went, we were his personal guests. He made sure that everything we needed was taken care of and his connection to everyone who lived in Valbona Valley and much of Theth made the experience that much more charming and wonderful.We enjoyed our holiday very much. We liked the environment and the hikes, we liked the food, but most of all the people that we met were very friendly and warm. The accommodation was as you described: varying from rather basic to two hotels with a special atmosphere: all of them were good within their class. We definitely will spread the word about Albania as a holiday destination!
Ardit was a very good guide, very knowledgeable about the Alps, and very concerned about our well being. We would like to give a compliment on his talent for improvising and recommend him to all our friends.
Andreas Weinberger, Germany
June 2014Pavlin hat uns in zwei Tagen auf den Jezerca, den höchsten Gipfel der Albanischen Alpen geführt. Er hat uns (Familie mit 12-jähriger Tochter) am Vortag abgeholt und sich zunächst um einen sicheren Abstellplatz für unser Auto gekümmert. Anschließend führte der erste Tag gemütlich bis zur Gropa te Bukara, wo wir zelteten, für das Gepäck hatten wir ein Pferd. Am zweiten Tag stiegen wir zum Maja Jezerces auf und über die Nord-Route ab. Der zweite Tag war anstrengend, wunderschön und tatsächlich auch mit Kind zu schaffen
Pavlin hat sich hervorragend um uns gekümmert und an besonders schwierigen Stellen unserer 12-jährigen Tochter geholfen. Auch kannte er den Weg, was aus eigener Erfahrung nicht selbstverständlich für albanische Führer ist. Wir würden jederzeit wieder mit Pavlin gehen.
Alles hatte super gut geklappt. Besonderes Highlight für unsere Tochter war ein Fohlen, das mit der Stute mitgeführt wurde. Die albanischen Alpen sind ein wunderschönes, ursprüngliches Wandergebiet. Auf vielen Wegen ist jedoch ein zuverlässiger Führung sehr zu empfehlen.It was amazing. We hiked through northern Albania and it was beautiful. Erenik was a great guide, super friendly, very helpful and encouraging. His relationship with the locals and guesthouses was great, so was his knowledge of the area and history. It was interesting to hear about his culture and I felt safe the entire time we traveled with him. The trip exceeded my expectations.
Jonathan and Alex, United States
Peaks of the Balkans Trek
June 2014Thank you, Zbulo, for helping us experience a richly authentic week in the Albanian Alps. Your care and attention to detail ensured that we were whisked away to another world, all the while knowing we were in trusted hands. We enjoyed wonderful hospitality in the evenings and magnificent challenges during the daytime. We hope to return someday.
Gillian Anderson and Peter Jacobs, Australia
Peaks of the Balkans Trek
June 2014Thank you Zbulo and Ricardo in particular for an excellent 9 days walking the Peaks of the Balkans Trail. The mountain scenery, trail, culture and hospitality of the local people was exceptional. We were very impressed by our guide’s (Ricardo) geographic and historic knowledge and relationship with the village people making it a great authentic ecotourism experience. In many places the trail and options for accommodation were not obvious to the visitor but Ricardo’s insights into the country and people made it all seem effortless and opened up opportunities that would otherwise not been available as independent travellers. All of Ricardo’s pre trip advice and suggestions on the trekking route and itinerary added value to the overall experience. We have experienced many mountain treks and would rate the Peaks of the Balkans as amongst the best. By doing the trail and supporting the communities in the different countries it is a great opportunity to promote cross cultural understanding and peace throughout the Balkans Peace Park. We would highly recommend this trip through Zbulo.
Rene & Dik, Belgium
Alps Explorer (self-guided tour)
May 2014Dear Ricardo, Going over the photos of our trip to Albania, I realize we have forgotten to thank you for the excellent service. Your service was truly impeccable and exceeding our expectations. The same is true for Albania: what a wonderful country with fantastic people, history and amazing nature. All prejudices – I am afraid I had a few myself – have proven to be incorrect; possibly with an exception for the stolen Mercedes. Thanks again, we will recommend Zbulo! to whoever has an interest in going to Albania. Dik and Rene
Graham Heimberg, United States
Family Hiking Trip in Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro
June 2013You were amazingly helpful and provided lots of specific information during the planning stages. This was extremely useful for me to get a feel of the options and the area. For example, your suggestion of three different itineraries helped me understand exactly how to prioritize our limited time traveling. You were also very accommodating of our last minute planning which was appreciated. Each of the guides and drivers were helpful and made their best effort to give us information about the area, even bringing along their kids who were able to help translate. Traveling with vlatko was definitely a highlight. He first approached us suggesting two routes and we chose the scenic route. It was a full, memorable day, topped off with a sunset swim. We ended late and he showed no signs of being impatient even though it was his wife’s birthday the next day. The hike itself was beautiful and even though Leonardi was not the usual guide we had a great time with him and he was very careful with all of our stuff packed into one unlucky donkey. As for things to change, there isn’t much I can suggest. You have a great operation based in a stunning location. The prices you charged were very reasonable which made it an easy choice to travel with you. You were very responsive even when corresponding with 3 people at once. I’m glad we were able to find you! Thanks again for everything.
Michael Güther, Germany
Trekking in Albania and Kosovo
October 2013Die Albanien-Kosovo-Reise hat bei mir so viele bleibende Eindrücke hinterlassen und gedanklich sind mir Land und Leute fast täglich gegenwärtig. Es war diesmal ein besonderes Gefühl, als ich nach dem Start vom Flugzeug nochmal auf das Land schaute. Zusätzlich zur schönen Bergwelt und der herrlichen Natur haben bei mir die Freundlichkeit der Menschen und die nette Gastfreundschaft einen besonderen Eindruck hinterlassen. Es gab so viele schöne Erlebnisse und du hast mit deinen tiefgründigen detailierten Erläuterungen uns die Sache besonders nahe gebracht. Dafür sage ich nochmals danke für die schönen Tage. Ich freue mich, dass ich Land und Leute so kennen lernen durfte und das denken und fühlen wohl alle anderen der Reisegruppe auch so.
Thomas Engelmann, Germany
Trekking Albania Alps in Albania and Kosovo
September 2013Dies war einer unser schönsten Urlaube, Kurz ein paar Informationen, was mir/uns besonders gefallen hat: – eine tolle Gruppe – ein super Reiseleiter -Ricardo-, der uns über Land und Leute, Kultur, Traditionen und Geschichte, so gut informierte und vor allem mit seinen jungen Jahren sich auch sehr gut auf alle unterschiedlichen Charaktere der Gruppe einstellen konnte. So etwas hatten wir bisher nur mit Ljuba in Karelien – Herrliche Landschaften, die Ursprünglichkeit, keine Infrastruktur, kein Massentourismus, viel Ruhe. Wo gibt es so etwas noch! – sehr freundliche Menschen, dies war ehrlich und nicht aufgesetzt. – für Anja und mich war bisher fast einmalig, diese Form der Unterbringung in Privatquartieren und das dazu gehörige weitestgehend traditionelle Essen. So wurden wir auch gefragt, mit Händen und Füßen, da wir nicht Albanisch und unsere Gastgeber nicht Deutsch konnten, ob wir mit Maulbeeren ernten wollten, was wir auch gemacht haben. Unsere Reisegruppe gehörte zur Großfamilie. Einfach schön für uns, da wir keine Probleme mit dem Komfortverzicht haben. – Wir wünschen uns, dass Schulz weiterhin den Mut hat, diese Art der Reisen anzubieten. – Abschließend: Es war eine der schönsten Reisen. – Für meine Frau war es auch eine sehr schöne Reise, nur Ihr fehlte, dass man mal ein, zwei Tage Ruhe hat. Sie hat sich diese genommen.
Wolfang & Elke, Germany
Hiking the Albania Alps and Sightseeing in Kosovo
September 2013Danke für die vielen Informationen zu Filmen und Literatur die wir zurück von der Reise uns zu Gemüte führen werden! Die Eindrücke des Urlaubs waren so vielfältig und beeindruckend, dass sie noch lange nachwirken und in guter Erinnerung bleiben. Eine entsprechende Rückmeldung an unsere Freunde mit Anregung für einen Kosovo-Ausflug und besonderer Erwähnung Deiner Super-Reiseleitung (***** = 5 Sterne), besser geht nicht) haben wir bereits weitergegeben. Weiterhin alles Gute und viel Erfolg bei Deinen Planungen.
Natalie Krüger, Switzerland
Trekking in Theth and Valbona
September 2013Ich konnte mich auf jeden Fall super erholen und schwebe hier, trotz hochgestapelten Pendenzen, mit einer manisch-gut-gelaunten Leichtigkeit durch mein Büro. Mal schauen wie lange das anhält 🙂 Vermisse unsere schönen Wanderungen, unsere albanischen Freunde und natürlich den “Schlabberlie”. (Naja, befürchte ich mache einen Entzug durch :-)..) Liebe Grüsse aus Zürich.
Greger Wahlstedt, Sweden
Self-Guided Tour Albanian Alps
September 2013Hello, we are now back to work in Sweden. But we have very memorable memories from our trip!! The hotel Bicaj in Shkoder was priceworthy and really OK. We took a late night walk into the city for dinner at an italian place. We really enjoyed the trip to Theth valley. The jeep journey was a fun adventure! We did three hikes: – the first one was to Fusha e Denellit Alp. Extremely nice view over Theth and the mountain in the background in the beginning. In the middle part too much walk in the forest for our taste, but still OK. Overall a nice start of our hiking. We didnt have the whole day to hike because we arrived Theth with the jeep at about 10. – second day we walked the Arapit mountain. As a start Paulin drove us to Okol, extremely fast on that bumpy road! 🙂 We didn’t do it all the way to the top. We walked down to the lakes and found them full of frogs and snakes! Not the right place for taking a bath! 🙂 – the third day, also a half day because we left Paulin’s with the jeep at 14. We walked down to the beautiful waterfall, and THERE we took a quick bath!! We also walked over the bridge just beneth the waterfall and saw the beautiful breathtaking canyon! Paulin Polia family was really nice. It was interesting to get a view of their life. And that was easy because they was fluent in english. If I meet someone who are interested in going to Montenegro and/or Albania I will surely recommend you at Zbulo, as well as Paulin Polia. I send you a Picture of us all at Arapit mountain. Its me in yellow. Thank you and Best regard
Martin Uhl, Germany
Round Trip Albania
August 2013Es waren fantastische Tage. Sehr intensive Erlebnisse, die verdaut werden müssen. Danke noch einmal für die Arbeit, die du mit uns hattest. Dieser Urlaub wird sicherlich lange in Erinnerung bleiben. Die ersten Gespräche mit Freunden und Bekannten lassen hoffen, dass Albanien in Zukunft mehr Besucher aus Deutschland haben wird.
Veronika Meier, Swizerland
Trekking in the Accursed Mountains: Albania and Kosovo
August 2013Nochmals besten Dank für die schöne Wanderwoche in deiner Wahlheimat. Ich wünsche Dir schon jetzt einen guten Winter in deinem Bergtal. Bei uns gab es heute Schnee bis 1400 m/M! Die 10 Tage in den albanischen Alpen waren super, schöne Wanderungen, interessante Gastgabe und vor allem auch gutes Essen. Herzliche Grüsse aus der Schweiz und danke für deine zusätzlichen Infos.
Gabi Muck, Germany
Hiking the Alps: Theth and Valbona
July 2013Mie mengjes Ricardo, Wir sind gut und sanft in München gelandet, auch die Anschlussflüge wurden erreicht. Nun sitze ich beim Frühstück und Gerlindes 6.00 Uhr rumoren im Zimmer hat mir gefehlt. Aber eins gibt es heut nicht bei mir …. den Schafskäse 🙂 Ein Glück das ich genügend Bilder gemacht habe, um das Erlebte der letzten 10 Tage auch später wieder gut Revue passieren zu lassen. Ich danke Dir nochmals für Dein Arrangement uns diese Reise so interessant wie möglich zu gestalten und vor allem von diesem Land und dessen Hintergründe soviel erfahren zu haben, faleminderit! Shendet, gezuar und udhar mbare – mirupafshim Ricardo!